Bespoke Aubergine Calf Adelaide Oxford

Hi to everyone,

I would to invite to take a look at our latest bespoke work pieces of Adelaide Oxford.

The client was looking for a very simple design but with slight renewed shape. This time we have tough to make a less chiseled cap toe, and making two lines of stitching on sewing.

The trial shoe to test the confort and the best fitting

The testing fit was very fine as well as the costumer received very well our design and shape. Once the confort has been assured we are able to proceed with the final order under a higher confidence.

After setting the uppers, on tasks of stitching machine.

                                                                                    

Hand sewn welting

Hand stitching soles, 5 stitches per cm

And this is the final result:

Thanks to all to follow!

Black to black Bespoke Oxford

Hi to everyone,

I would to invite to take a look at my latest handmade order based on black calf and suede Oxfords.

First of all we thank the trust of our customer since the first moment we set the first design proposal. The client relied on our idea of use two different types of leathers keeping the black colour as its essence. The enquiry has been made to use in very special ocasions as in his own ceremony wedding, so congratulations Mr.J.H.! 

The customer had put clear that he wanted an Oxford but not too classic, but with a touch of boldness to be recognized easily.

Fortunately for us, the proposal was well received for the costumer and when we get to make the first test shoe he liked pretty much. Which we appreciated so much and to continue to work with the same patterns in the same direction but looking small tweaks to improve some details.

On tasks of hand-lasting of the final order.

The first shoe test helped us to make small tweaks to improve the fitting between the shape of the lasts to get better confort to the second one. Once the best confort was assured, we could get the viability to improve the connection between the seams and shape. In this way what we were looking for was the effect of the tensioned lines as a essential  presence that we love to do, as certainly elevate degree of intensity on caps trying to make a chiseled shaped.

Shank done after the hand-sewn welted,

At the other hand using the combination of two known textures under the same tone as suede and calf black leather, gives a bite of informality closely related to that customer style.

We hope you like this new Bespoke work that from today we will not hesitate to work with the black leather, because black is black and is too essential to dispense with it.

These are some of pictures of the latest bespoke order finished:

Thank you very much to follow!

Bespoke Two Toned Oxford

Hi to everyone,

I would to invite to take a look at my last handmade bespoke work of two toned Oxford model.

As always I’ve been looking for the most appropriate shape to ensure the best fitting making a pair of test shoes before ensuring the best possible confort.

Photography by: Tània Paredes Fotografia.

I tried to use two different shades and textures of leathers, using Suede-calf and Box-calf on uppers. But the greatest difficulty has been to try to keep the proportions as much as possible although I had to raise the height of the block heel higher than the normal height.

Here are the pictures that show the handcrafted process, enjoy!

Thanks to follow!

Ramon Cuberta

My story

I moved to London seven years ago looking for another way of life and shake things up in my life. As part of the overall great experience, I discovered a craft world that was entirely made by hand, where the word bespoke took shape and embodied its essence.

I visited some of the most relevant and prolific bespoke handmade shoemaking houses in the UK made such a lasting impression on me that I decided it was time for me to dedicate my body, mind and soul to this noble craft. 

My firsts steps of the handmade shoemaking was learning from a high established and well-known masters shoemakers in Barcelona, Mr. Josep (Pitu) Cunillera and Mr.Carlos Piñol, while I was working as an apprentice under the tutelage of other artisan shoemaker, Mr.A.Rebó, making women’s boots and shoes.

But the most impactful step in my never-ending learning was when I went to London to meet Mr. Jonathan Hunter Lobb in John Lobb of Saint James St., who very kindly shared his time to attend me and hear the eagerness that I was willing to stay and learn from their invaluable well-known reputation of refined oldest-established English heritage of bespoke shoes & boots makers.

I will never forget that memory when Mr. J.H. Lobb gave me the invaluable opportunity to learn from their great handcraft shoemaking wisdom by the hands of one of their most experienced and talented artisan Masters shoemakers.

I wasn’t located in the work-shop in London, but the master took me under her wing to learn in one of the most important artisan ateliers of bespoke shoemaking in Barcelona and Spain. I was aware of how lucky I was when the Master expended great efforts to teach me the whole secrets of the gentle art of handmade bespoke shoemaking.

                                           

Today I see this great experience influenced and shaped me in the evolution as a shoemaker, my masters have given me away much more than techniques, they given me their look of constant curiosity to keep growing as a shoemaker.

Photographies by: Tània Paredes Fotografia, on Facebook and @tania_cat on Instagram.

Thanks for following!

Ramon Cuberta

Handmade to measure Tasseled Loafers

Hi to everyone,

I would to invite to take a look at my last work of Loafers model. Handcrafted piece to measure order, MTO service, under a specifications request of costumer Mr.R.P. Who was looking forward a free reins to create his own shoes ensuring the greatest possible comfort.

I’ve been looking for his most appropriate shape to ensure the best fitting trying to combine an elongated upper and his anatomical curves.

Finally I could design a loafer using just single intermediate seam, and seamless on the heel. This handcrafted work has begun making a test shoe as always looking for the best fitting. Each stage is completely carefully handcrafted starting to make the definitive patterns, “clicking” leathers using the finest Spanish box-calf leather; making the assembled uppers, hand sewn welted, hand stitching welt and sole adding one of the best oak bark vegetable tanned leather in Europe (Joh.Rendenbach Lederfabrik). As well as the finishing process of partial patina and polishing.

Here are the pictures that show the handcrafted process:

And these are the shots of final order:

Thanks to follow!