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18 Mar 2014

Bespoke Barcelona II: Squared toe Oxford

A new bespoke order is always a chance

After have had a meeting with Mr.Ll.C., the customer, sharing his personal preferences I got my own impression about what kind of shoes is he expecting: a plain Oxford box-calf leather, tobacco colour


squared tip and without broguing. Finished soles in two colours, being strongly marked the nerve of shank.
The measures of the costumers feet has been taken, and the work is just only have begun, the last must be adapted to their whole measures:


Time to make the trial shoes as a testing shoes for the purpose of fitting, comfort and design. They are made to be tested by this precise order.
To make them I use second quality black leather and synyhetic materials for the sole and heel:



These adjustment sessions of fitting untill the costumer to feel completely satisfied.
I proceed then with the order: Making patterns, cutting them to be stitched for a very skylled and experienced craftwoman, Ms. Margarita, lovely woman:


It's time to make the insole, hand lasting uppers with the toe puffs and heelcaps (made of gruben-neck): 





Keep going with the hand sewn welted, hand stitched sole, make the heel and the finishing:








Hard to believe but, I had the a special guest on my benchwork, who help me to finish...


Nerve of shank is strongly marked and finished by two colours. The tip and the heel have been reinforced by nails:


At the end of several weeks of hardworking, the bespoke shoes are done. I have endeavored as much as my skill has allowed me, and above all I made them everyday with love. Judge for yourselves:








The most important is I have learned more litle things of this amazing trade. And the costumer is happy enough, thanks God!

Thanks for visit my post, untill the next order!
















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