Bespoke Barcelona III: Black and wide squared toe Oxford

New Order from United States costumer:

I must admit this trade is exciting, well able to devote myself to what I love the most, I meet many different people from different parts of the world.

This time I had a visit from a gentleman from USA, whom we have agreed to do a Bespoke Service by wide toe and straight Oxford, black box-calf leather, with simple stitching and broguing.Mr.M.A.Khan., the customer, after have shared his personal preferences, I got my own idea about what kind of last is necessary to gain its desire.

It's always exciting to start a new assignment, I treat it as our project. The feedback is very important to me, and will be another opportunity to grow as a shoemaker and try to get the costumer expectations.

I show you the monitoring of every each step of the most important stages in the development of this assignment, that I spend two months with the cooperation and assistance of the estimated customer:

First, I have to find the desired shape by the client and the measures taken to adapt his feet. After the last are adapted, is time to make design of the trial shoe:

After the patterns are made, and cutted the leather to make the uppers, I stard with the preassembly of trial shoes. Once I finish them, client will be test its confort and design:

After performing the test, we realize the last need to do a few tweaks to finish the form fit well in the foot. For that reason, I decide to make a change of chape to improve the fit last in order to make sure its fitting:

And getting ready the final design with brogued captoe that the customer choose:

Time to do the final touch-up patterns so entered and cut the black box-calf leather to be stitched and brogued. The box-calf leather is really wonderful:

Making the insole:

Preassembly:

The captoe brogued is done. Hand-lasting time, in this picture the captoe is still unfinished on purpose, for a while I prefer to keep the leather without being too stretched: